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Here is a break down for removal of the transmission:

Remove the Air Box
Remove the battery and battery tray
Remove the starter, PITA!@!!#$%^ These bolts have some SERIOUS corrosion due to the difference in metals. They are always corroded so be ready with a major breaker bar and the fact you can only get very small turns on these bolts. I suggest eyeballing this before you begin to make sure you know what to expect.
Remove the two cables to the shift linkage on the shifter mount
Remove the shift linkage plate on the transmission
Disconnect the Clutch hydraulic line and hang it from the brake master cylinder so it does not leak, cap this off otherwise this fluid WILL remove the paint!
Remove Drivers side wheel
This is a Mother #%@#%, Remove the bolts holding that power steering line to the transmission on the front and side. You and this line are going to become ENEMIES! This thing will get in the way the entire time. You will see later on.
Hold the brakes and break loose the triple square bolts on the Half shafts, (I found using a VERY long 1/4″, drive and socket that fits the end of the TS tool will allow you to crank on this from out from under the car) you may also remove the bolts(6 on each side) and plates(3 on each side) for each of the shafts
Lift the drivers side drive shaft and support it with some tie-wraps from the sway bar on the drivers side.

*Note-for cars made before 2000.5:
Due to the turbo oil return design you will have to remove the 3 lower ball joint bolts on the passenger side of the car and then pull the ball joints base plate out of the lower control arm socket groove. This allows the drive shaft to be moved out enough to get access to the allen bolt holding the half shaft in the transmission/differential.

With the drive shafts out of the way, insert one of the drive shaft bolts into one of the holes the bolts came out of. Using a VERY long screwdriver or 3/8 extension counter the torque when removing the center allen that holds the 1/2 shaft in the transmission. The half shafts are spring loaded and each of the 1/2 shafts has one of these allens to keep the 1/2 haft engaged with the differential, so remove them and then pull the 1/2 shaft out of the transmission. Get some paper towels and stuff a plastic baggy so that you can plug the 1/2 shaft holes. The reason is when you go to remove the transmission transmission oil is going to go EVERYWHERE without those holes plugged. now that I think about it you probably noticed oil coming out with the car on level ground.

1/2 shaft retaining bolt location

Remove the Dog bone and the 13mm bolts that hold it to the sub frame
Remove remove the exhaust down pipe from the turbo
On the back of the motor near the down pipe you will see a thin metal shim like plate between the transmission and the engine. On that plate there is a small removable panel…remove it using a small flat head. Where is it you ask?…If you are looking from the back of the motor up around the 11:00 position between the turbo and the block you will see it. This will hang up when removing the transmission if not removed now.

Get your engine support and chains.
Hook the chains to the Head near the vacuum pump and the other with the most slack on the other support near the injection pump. You want all the weight to be on the one near the vacuum pump when supporting the engine. If you can bias the support so that the engine wants to come forward when you remove the engine mount. The idea is angle the engine toward the front drivers side and down slightly to slide the transmission out.

With the weight off the transmission mount remove the two transmission bolts and transmission mount from the car.
Lower the transmission until the deck of the transmission mounting plate just clears the underside lip below the battery….When you slide the transmission off it will bump the lower sub pillar under the battery, this is as far as you need to go. DO NOT go to low or else the transmission will hang up on the aft sub frame where the Dog-Bone bolts onto.
WITHOUT REMOVING THE TOP TWO TRANSMISSION MOUNT BOLTS Remove the rest of the bell housing bolts top, bottom all around.
Get a transmission jack or something you can slide the transmission onto.
NOW remove the two Stainless colored bolts that go onto the block.
Slide the transmission onto the flat surface and lower it to the floor. You’re gonna laugh because I am making this all sound so easy.

Review the procedure for installing the new clutch.

Tips for re-installing:
Once you get the transmission back on the shaft, get one of those stainless colored bolts started THEN raise the engine and transmission so that it does not slide off the shaft. You may have to rock the transmission slightly to get the splines to engage the clutch disk. DO NOT let all the weight be supported by the shaft, this will trash the clutch disk!!!
Get a long lever to compress the 1/2 shaft into the transmission. The allens are not long enough to engage the center holes without first pressing them in. All you need to do is get the allen started the rest is easy.
When reinstalling the clutch hydraulic line install the line first THEN remove the bolt that is holding the throw out bearing arm. This will reduce the amount of bleeding you have to do.
Use a pressure bleeder to bleed the hydraulic line. You can use the pedal but its pretty awkward since you have to pull the clutch out…best thing to do is use a good quality pressure bleeder.

Good Luck!